Mulier’s second collection embraced the three-dimensionality and form-defining silhouettes
was a man of paradox and contradiction. Alongside the enigmatic, there was the engaging, the egalitarian. His relationship to art, to artists, his love of design, of literature, was unique – especially in the way it all came together under his roof, and often at his kitchen table, intermingling different disciplines and mediums in constant and unexpected conversations. And how about how
adored fashion – his collection is one of the most important in the world – and yet refused to follow its rules or conventions?All those ideas found expression in this collection – freely explored, rather than slavishly kowtowed to. The collection fused ready-to-wear and couture, presented for a self-determined season Alaïa dubbed Summer-Fall.
Alaïa’s own signatures were also explored: the checks of his famous ‘Tati’ collection; his solid, velvety knits with unexpected hold, bounce and volume; the meandering décolletage of a dress he called the ‘Carla’, christened after Carla Sozzani who was fired as editor of Italianafter putting it on the cover, because they wanted her to only feature Italian designers. She is, like Azzedine was, a rebel at heart.
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