From the September 1987 issue of HOT ROD: A five-point plan that's a cross between Pro Stock looks and European GT road race car durability and driveability.
From the September 1987 issue of HOT ROD: A five-point plan that's a cross between Pro Stock looks and European GT road race car durability and driveability.are not realistic. We won't say "many," because that's far from true. But the far out, overdone, push-the-limits, go-for-broke vehicles are the ones that demand the attention, the ones you remember. That's why people build them. That's why we feature them.
Race car springs and shocks are not made for road cruising; they're made to launch the vehicle. A common, persistent problem in all types of street hot rods is improper selection of springs and shocks. First of all, you've got to design the suspension so it has some travel, even if the car sits low.
Along with proper gearing, to keep your Real Streeter on the road and out of gas stations you need an adequate fuel tank. If your car gets 10 mpg, we'd suggest a10-gallon tank, which would give you a 100-mile range. If your car gets 2 or 3 mpg , it's not a Real Streeter, is it? A couple of other points to consider: If you're really going to drive the car, don't use solid motor mounts, which transmit engine vibrations through the chassis. If you want to use a motor plate or other trick-looking mounts, put a rubber or urethane biscuit between them and the frame. If you need a torque strap, make it of flexible cable.
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