Helen Rosner reviews Lola’s, led by the chef-owner Suzanne Cupps and situated in NoMad. The global menu includes Southern, Filipino, and other Asian influences.
Cupps, wearing a Lola’s-branded trucker hat, is stationed each night at the border of the open kitchen, bringing the attention of a master craftsman to details of timing and technique.
Country ribs—a fatty, flavorful shoulder cut of pork—are served on skewers over a ladleful of white beans, and the piquant barbecue sauce with which they’re brushed has an oniony sweetness that gives them an unexpected but sort of wonderful hint of Ashkenazi brisket.
Philippines Asian Food Southern Food
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