Helen Rosner reviews the recently reopened Central Park Boathouse, now helmed by the chef Adam Fiscus, with consulting from David Pasternack.
After more than a year of closure, the Boathouse restaurant reopened this spring, under Legends Hospitality, a massive operations company that also oversees concessions at the One World Observatory, the Circle Line, and Yankee Stadium—not to mention numerous facilities outside of New York, including the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, the L.A. Coliseum, and Spain’s Santiago Bernabéu stadium, home to Real Madrid.
The spring menu included a shaved-asparagus salad topped with a très “Silver Palate” medallion of warmed goat cheese, and swordfish . Russian dressing, zippy and coral-pink, is drizzled on romaine with freshly grated horseradish, and reappears in a ramekin as a dipping sauce for golden fries. Every meal starts with a relish tray, pleasantly retro if rather anemic: a few leaves of endive, a couple of black olives, melba toast, a little puddle of dip.
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