Review: Akahoshi Ramen, beautiful bowls by Ramen Lord in Logan Square

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Review: Akahoshi Ramen, beautiful bowls by Ramen Lord in Logan Square
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Open since late last fall, there still seems to be a perpetual line outside. It’s a measure of the reputation within.

Mike Satinover, chef and owner of Akahoshi Ramen, at his restaurant on March 28, 2024, in Chicago. I’m not so sure. It bears recognizing then that there’s a whole wide world of ramen, from instant noodles to traditional Japanese to modern interpretations.Akahoshi Ramen offers more than beautiful bowls by chef Mike Satinover, who’s exceeding his exacting standards by letting some go.

The lush Akahoshi miso, a study in gold and light, topped with tender pork chashu, has become the favorite by far, accounting for about half of all the ramen they sell. The ikura rice bowl, from left, ajitama egg on the side, Akahoshi miso ramen and yuzu highball cocktail at Akahoshi Ramen in Chicago on March 28, 2024.

Ironically, he considers the fact that he makes his noodles, with their golden glorious bite, a minor difference. I’m so impressed by the distinct differences in the noodles, from the signature Sapporo to an unorthodox straight style in the March special Toyama Black. Most people would have been none the wiser with the same noodles in all the bowls.

“I am not Rice Lord,” said Satinover laughing. He’s perhaps best known to some as Ramen Lord, his username on Reddit, the online network of communities and obsessions. “We’re still kind of figuring that out.”They’re also still figuring out some small service issues. When you arrive at the restaurant, if you have reservations, released Mondays at noon, then you can skip the line. About half the seats are available for walk-ins. But that’s unclear at the door and in the minimalist dining room.

And that leads us to the egg question. Why doesn’t he include an ajitama egg with any of his ramen? The soft yolked egg marinated for days is available as an extra topping for $2.

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