Review: Equal Parts Local and Destination, Never Say Dive Delivers Joy in Old Brooklyn

Never Say Dive News

Review: Equal Parts Local and Destination, Never Say Dive Delivers Joy in Old Brooklyn
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Many peg the early aughts as the golden era of cocktails, but I would argue that there’s no better time to be into libations than right now.

Sure, credit goes out to those serious-minded craft cocktail lounges, where we learned to ditch the sticky-sweet swigs in favor of proper Prohibition-era classics, but, man, were those places a snooze.

From the outside, Never Say Dive looks like every other workingman’s tavern from back in the day. But step inside and you land in a playful escape from the real world, where theatrical touches like bright neon, marquee-style menu boards and campy art combine to create a vibe best described as “revived dive.” Underneath it all, though, is a handsome 1920s-era saloon that features chestnut-paneled walls, tin ceilings, checkerboard linoleum flooring, stationary stools and rebuilt booths.

The drinks program is right on trend with housemade seltzers, draft cocktails and bespoke bevvies. Clever names like Metallicus, Flux Capacitor and Non-Alignment Pact belie the thought and labor that goes into these balanced blends. Barbados rum and falernum star in a stellar daiquiri called Royal Bermuda Yacht Club . If a Long Island Iced Tea and a Ramos Gin Fizz had a lovechild, it might taste like the Escape from Long Island thanks to its boozy base, velvety texture and poofy egg-white cap.

If you’re looking for an edible example of the high-low concept being bandied about order the Dive Dog . A weighty Kobe-beef dog is tucked into a poppy seed brioche bun and gilded with dollops of briny caviar. Potato chips add crunch while mayo greases the wheels. A great place to start is with a snack platter, a choice of three for $13.

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