Review: We Tried Kernel, Chipotle Founder's New Robot-Run Restaurant

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Review: We Tried Kernel, Chipotle Founder's New Robot-Run Restaurant
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Steve Ells is betting big on the idea that people want to eat less meat—and don't care that much about lunchtime human interaction.

In a sparse kitchen, a robot arm swings around and grabs a platter of pre-fried soy “chicken” off a rack where it’s resting. In one clean motion, it drops the imitation meat onto a conveyor belt, which takes it through an impingement oven and re-crisps the cutlet. A few feet away, a brioche bun gets toasted for a precise 30 seconds. Protein and bun are released onto a conveyor belt and arrive together in front of a employee, who begins assembling the complete fried “chicken” sandwich.

This is not an Impossible-style burger trying to mimic beef—it’s a proud veggie burger, with the slight and satisfying mush of a standout version. It’s not crumbly like many other veggie burgers. An avocado-based salsa verde adds a zippy kick, while pink pickled onions provide some crunch. That’s all sandwiched into a pillowy-soft brioche bun. It’s not just good for a veggie burger, it’s a good burger, period. The menu is rounded out by sides with deceptively simple names but a lot of flavor.

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