Set amidst explosions of multicoloured smoke, Rick Owens’ Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show was about “considering joy a moral obligation”
put on a spectacle of the highest order. The Californian designer has been showing in the museum’s gargantuan courtyard for years, setting towers on fire, globes aflame, jet streams of water sky high, and letting fog machines run wild. For his Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show, Owens took the extravaganza to the next level; to the beats of an earth-shaking industrial score, towering fireworks pelted out folds of smoke yellow, blue, and red, showering an unwitting audience in debris and ash.
In his show notes, Owens said this was about “considering joy a moral obligation”. His previous collections have had strong political tilts, referencing topics like the ongoing war in Ukraine or Trump’s anti-Mexican sentiment – but this season, the designer was simply embracing a feeling, a mood. “With our world conditions under increasing threat, jubilance seems like the wrong note but maybe it’s the only correct moral response?” he wrote.
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