Sacai Spring 2025 Menswear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
James Dean giving his best rebel stare appeared on a T-shirt early in this Sacai collection. It wasn’t just his brooding beauty that turned on Chitose Abe this season. Backstage she said she fell for a quote attributed to the famous actor: “I think the prime reason for existence, for living in this world, is discovery.” Dean’s own path of discovery was cut brutally short when he died in a car accident, on his way to a racing competition, at just 24. Abe’s journey is ongoing.
Her zest for remixing was not diminished on the runway, but because the building blocks of the collection were classics of 1950s American style—Dean’s era—it felt more essential and less experimental than her collections sometimes do. Preppy, in its way, but with a Sacai twist. The red Harrington jacket Dean wore so well, in, for example, was oversized, as were the chinos worn with it, which also featured an inner waistband with the brand logo peeking out above a nylon webbed belt.
Denim came in for a good deal of reinvention. Levi’s jean jackets were nipped, tucked, and pleated into eye-catching shapes for guys, and on the girls’ side they were spliced with jeans to make a denim shirtdress and a denim jumpsuit of extreme proportions. Abe also hooked up with WTAPS, a cult Japanese streetwear brand known for military garb, and had some fun with army uniforms.
A few of the models carried a pile of books secured with a strap, the way teenagers of the 1950s did, back when they walked to school uphill. Back when teens actually read books. Abe seemed to be tapping into something universal with this collection. Ivy style, which is another strain of this look, has been trending all season. When the future feels scary, we tend to look to the past, though Abe, who is an optimist by nature, doesn’t necessarily see things that way.
Spring 2025 Menswear Runway_Review Runway
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