Held in a giant hall designed by Mies van der Rohe in Berlin, Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show paid homage to androgynous icons like Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie
“To play with the codes of femininity and masculinity,” said Vaccarello. “I don’t know the limit between.”And, I mean, we call this menswear – and it was worn by men – but really anything goes.
Those shoulders were either squared-off, linebacker-wide, or fragile and sloping, deltoids exposed by blouses and bowed transparent chiffon, seductive cutaways and the kind of shrugged-off fichu necklines usually reserved for slithering evening dresses. “More couture, more refined, more delicate,” he said.
But, hold up – hadn’t that woman already borrowed her look from the Saint Laurent man, via Monsieur Saint Laurent himself who borrowed his shoulder from menswear to paradoxically assert femininity through masculinity? A nd Vaccarello’s men looked empowered and sensual dressed in silks and chiffons, while, apparently, now women are buying the men’s looks tooSo there’s a great, glorious sloppy mass of gender fluidity all about this show, all the more satisfying because it’s so unintentional, so unselfconscious, and so au naturale.
One of the remarkable things about Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent shows – and I do feel like they’re remarkable, more so season after season – is how, despite being a behemoth label keenly attuned to the modern marketing realities of 21st-century fashion,. It doesn’t feel like it’s about pumping out product, rather proposing a vision. “I’m from the old school,” Vaccarello said. “For me, fashion … it’s not something that has to talk necessarily to everyone.” He paused.
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