There’s the fierce tang of ambition here, an early contender for snack of the year, and other acts of subversion
With the starters it’s all about the detail. A chicken liver parfait is so smooth, so whipped and glossy, it could stand in as an edible version of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream. Don’t wait for your digestive system to deliver it to your cellulite. Just spread it straight on to your thighs for a lovely, glossy finish. It is rich without being cloying and comes with a generous scoop of bacon jam, a dense, sweet-savoury porky relish that makes me feel understood.
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