Despite the challenges of getting there, it seemed to be worth taking a first-hand look at the edge of a military conflict between China and India, writes Geoff Raby.
It was minus 15 degrees Celsius as the long night was ending, when we set out from the ancient Silk Road logistics and market hub of Leh, in India’s northern Ladakh province. Ahead was a nine-hour return journey to the edge ofThe Ladakh/Tibet area is one of the most heavily militarised regions along the entire India-China border.
It has also been costly for China geopolitically. Within weeks of the skirmishes, India strengthened its commitment to– the diplomatic network with Australia, Japan and the United States – and welcomed Australia into the Malabar naval exercises, something India had resisted for many years. The distance from Leh to Lake Pangong is only some 220 kilometres, but the poor condition of the road and traffic along it makes for four to five hours driving each way. Leaving Leh, the road follows the Indus River on its journey along its eponymous valley from Mount Kailas in Tibet to the Arabian Sea. Rising from the valley at 3500 metres, the road follows ever steeper mountainous contours in tighter bends.
At lower altitude on the other side, we see flocks of precious pashmina sheep, tended by isolated shepherds far from any shelter or trees in these vast wind-swept valleys. A herd of black yaks make a smudge on the horizon along the shore of a small glittering frozen lake. To reach the lake, it is necessary to have a passport check and a permit, and drive through a military base with signs warning of severe consequences for taking photographs. Prominent signs regularly extol the virtues of bravery and persistence. One read, “Train hard, fight easy” and, with a commercial interest, India Oil has dotted the place with patriotic billboards such as “Salute our Brave Soldiers”.
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