The London-based, Irish-born designer shares the steps she’s taken to ensure inclusivity and the uncharted conversations she’s having with buyers and retailers about changing the fashion landscape.
. Every garment was altered to fit each model for the show, but the sizes will be tweaked again when they go into production, to ensure that they serve a range of body types. The next step is figuring out how to get buyers to buy a full size range – or at least a decent size range – and working out how to have those conversations. Luckily, the buyers that I work with want to serve a broader clientele, and they really care.
I’m really interested in characters, so finding people who have something to say is really important. It’s about bringing them together in a way that seems cohesive, but not tokenistic., one of my best friends and a model and artist in her own right, walked in the show. She’s my muse and has been my fit model for two seasons. We have a unique relationship, a very honest and collaborative one, where she can tell me what makes her feel comfortable, what works and what doesn’t.
From a design perspective, obviously it’s more difficult to work from numerous block patterns at once as I do, or to use a range of fit models instead of one. But ultimately, I believe brands and designers should be resolving the issue by making fewer styles, or showing in fewer seasons – however they want to do it. They should reduce the amount of different things they’re making, and focus instead on the amount of sizes per style or per season.
Being represented is the most important thing in the world, for every sort of person, because it has such a profound impact on people’s mental health when they don’t see themselves represented. It’s only going to get better – I believe the younger generations are driving a trend that big brands are now trying to follow.
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