Sri Lanka: A Paradise Rebounding

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Sri Lanka: A Paradise Rebounding
Sri LankaTravelTourism
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Discover the beauty and resilience of Sri Lanka as tourism surges back. Explore ancient ruins, breathtaking landscapes, vibrant culture, and the warmth of its people. From the Sigiriya fortress to the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya and the coastal charm of Galle, this island nation offers an unforgettable journey.

Visitors can expect a warm welcome, and for now, not too many tourists - but that's changing. The air was heavy with humidity. Hastily avoiding the grasping hands of a mischievous macaque, I hauled myself up a final set of rock-hewn steps, emerging on to the flat brow of Sigiriya , the striking 180-metre-tall volcanic plug that roars high above the forested landscapes of central Sri Lanka .

The ant-march of tourists up the “Lion Rock” – home to the remnants of a 5th century palace built by a Sri Lankan king with a penchant for patricide – was proof that, two years after the Easter attacks, tourism was rebounding. Drawn by sunshine, a wealth of historic sites such as Sigiriya and a strong pound-to-rupee conversion offering excellent value, British visitors to Sri Lanka have soared from 85,000 in 2022 to 147,000 in 2024, making the UK the second largest market after India. As the new government pushes a visa-free regime through parliament (which would save British holidaymakers £40), there has never been a better time to visit this welcoming island nation. Tour companies have seen the opportunity. One of the country’s eight Unesco World Heritage Sites (I would soon visit five more), Sigiriya was the first stop on a group tour of the South Asian island – a new itinerary launched by Jules Verne last year, taking in Sri Lanka’s highlights on an eight-night journey to the south coast city of Galle. I was staying around half-an-hour’s drive north at the four-star Habarana Village by Cinnamon, a very reasonable four-star lakeside hotel built in vernacular village style. Over the next two days, I visited the Unesco World Heritage Sites of Dambulla Cave Temples – where 157 ornate golden Buddha statues and colourful murals are found inside in a complex of mountain granite shrines – and Polonnaruwa, the country’s second capital after the destruction of Anuradhapura in AD993, where you’ll find the ruins of intricate temples, shrines, stupas and the royal palace. En route to Kandy – another historic Sri Lankan capital, where a Unesco World Heritage Site protects the Buddha’s Tooth, one of Buddhism’s holiest relics – I stopped for lunch at Ranweli Spice Garden. Dinusha Wanniarachchi, who spent his youth picking black pepper in the surrounding fields, guided me through the colourful cradle of herbs, spices and endemic plants, which included cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, turmeric, cardamom, lemongrass, cloves and curry. Spices in the fragrant gift shop are grown by local farmers in nearby villages, with profits going back into local communities. “We make fruit curries and chutneys, with mango, star fruits, papayas and bananas,” he said with a grin, before leading me into a cookery lesson where I used the spices to make lunch. Onions, garlic, chilli, tomatoes and okra were fried with curry leaves, cloves, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, star anise and pandan leaves, before being simmered in coconut milk – the base of nearly all Sri Lankan dishes. Soon, we were enjoying the okra curry with a feast of dishes prepared by the restaurant’s cooks, including fish cakes, red rice, jackfruit curry, and sambol (a spicy coconut condiment), served on wicker plates lined with lotus leaves, and washed down with cold Lion beers., which was introduced to the highlands by Scottish planter James Taylor and merchant Sir Thomas Lipton in the mid-19th century when Sri Lanka was the British colony Ceylon. A train making its way through the tea plantations of the highlands (Photo: Vincent Boisvert/Getty Images) Samosa hawkers kept me well fed for Rs150 (40p) a pop, as wannabe influencers leaned precariously out of open doors to snatch selfies with the magnificent mountain background. After the heat of the lowlands, I appreciated the cool climate of Nuwara Eliya, the hill station nicknamed Little England for its Tudor-style houses and afternoon tea culture. An early morning drive through the immaculately clipped hills brought me to Lipton’s statue atop Lipton’s Seat, a stunning viewpoint at an altitude of 1,970m. Nuwara Eliya is a tea drinker’s paradise, with every hotel, café and restaurant offering crisp Ceylon tea and famed varieties like English breakfast and Earl Grey, straight from source. “We’re a country that worships the earth, the mountains and trees. Buddhists must protect and maintain the environment,” he added, as we pulled up in Udawalawe National Park, where orphaned and injured elephants are rehabilitated. Hanging on in the back of a 4×4, we bumped along rutted tracks, meeting a herd of spotted deer, a trio of elephants and, as the sun set, crocodiles lazing in the wetlands. “You can see turtles here,” Machado said of this part of the south coast. “In Mirissa, a few miles west, you can see whales. Within a day, you can see all the largest mammals in Sri Lanka, including elephants, buffalos and leopards in Yala National Park.” My final stop was Galle, less than an hour’s drive west along the coast. This Unesco-listed city sits on a sunny peninsula lapped by the Indian Ocean

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Sri Lanka Travel Tourism History Culture Wildlife Tea Plantations Beaches Galle Sigiriya Nuwara Eliya Buddhism

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