We visit St John Marylebone, which carries on the legacy of the famed London restaurant and brings its signature style to a new location
and Trevor Gulliver in a converted smokehouse near the Smithfield meat market. The menu pioneered the concept of ‘nose-to-tail’ eating wherein every part of the animal is used, including parts less popular in Western cooking, like the intestines and the brain. The original St John has become a blueprint for many noteworthy restaurant launches since.
The new Marylebone outpost responds to the area’s cloistered, neighbourhood feel by offering early morning coffees and pastries for those commuting to work. Later in the day, a menu of small plates appears on the iconic blackboard. While the menu changes daily, visitors can expect to find St John classics like Bone Marrow Toast and Parsley Salad; Deep Fried Welsh Rarebit; and Onion Soup, as well as homemade pickles, jellies and chutneys served alongside British cheeses.
Henderson trained as an architect prior to becoming a chef and it was his idea to paint the walls white, in effect creating an atmosphere of almost clinical simplicity that was emphasised by the decision to have no art, no music, and minimal table settings. The space’s high ceilings lent it the feeling of a cathedral, one vaulted with bars once used to hang meat.
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