When London-based designers Stefan Cooke and James Burt were designing their A\/W 2021 collection from their new studio in north-east London, having taken on their first two employees, they listened to a heavy dose of alternative indie rock, which was integral to their adolescence. Looking back on the clothing they...
Homme, they were struck by these hard, hyperbolic shapes, such as ‘tiny skinny jeans pulled low with huge skate shoes’, and the commitment of the young to wear extreme proportions and pieces.
‘The collection is about extreme silhouettes, looks which people have been lacking when stuck at home,’ Cooke says, reflecting on recent times.Think tweed bomber jackets layered with tiny thigh-revealing kilts, drainpipe quilted denim paired with pointy white boots, and cropped capes and sleeveless Fair Isle knitwear teamed with the most tapered of tailoring.
‘The idea of men in skirts might seem like a gimmick,’ Burt says, referencing the short silhouette also seen in the brand’s A/W 2020 collection. ‘We kept refining the silhouette so that the final piece didn’t appear like an ironic statement.
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