Go on, then — just a scoop
Anna Higham, Lyle’s’s former pastry chef, is in a league of her own — especially when it comes to ice cream. She’s now moved on to The River Cafe, but this Shoreditch Michelin star still follows her edicts.
Flavour-wise, the guiding principle is that things which grow together go together: so there’s ricotta with fig-leaf oil, and blackcurrant leaf with the ripest blackcurrants. Even the single quenelle of milk ice cream atop the treacle tart has extraordinary depth. Seasonal and supremely stylish scoops, these — even if right now, the sleeper hit on the menu is a strawberry, ricotta, lemon verbena, and anise hyssop dessert that actually tastes like a Twister.
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