Is there a skin condition more prevalent than acne?
Once she’s done that, she examines the skin and looks for severity, scarring and mental health impact, and whether the patient feels self-conscious in their skin, and so on. Then it’s on to the plan of action. “I see acne treatment in three phases,” she explains. “Phase one is getting the acne switched off – that might be an oral medication. Once you’ve got the acne switched off and the bumps have gone, the next step is acne maintenance.
Crucially, skincare brands are now switched on to the fact that, in the past couple of years, consumers have fallen into the habit of throwing every acne-busting ingredient and formula they can at the problem, in a bid to clear it up as quickly as possible – only to disrupt the skin barrier. “High-strength blemish treatments can be really alluring to those with vulnerable skin,” agrees Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer at Medik8.
The brand’s new Press & Clear formula harnesses the power of BHA salicylic acid , which is oil soluble and able to penetrate deep into the pores to break down the blockages which lead to congestion. The formula contains technology which slowly releases the salicylic acid to prevent discomfort while maintaining power and efficacy. “It has a very skin-friendly pH of around 5.5,” adds Isaacs.
Retinoids, whether prescription strength or bought over the counter, are the gold standard to treat acne-prone skin. “Retinoids are very good applied topically if you’ve got comedonal acne, lots of blackheads or blocked pores beneath the skin,” says Dr Mahto. “But they’re quite strong, so if you’re using one, I recommend combining with a cleanser and/or moisturiser that’s geared towards sensitive skin to prevent disruption to the skin barrier.
One thing worth noting about retinoid use is that, because they accelerate skin turnover, sometimes they can initially cause the skin to purge, meaning it can look worse for a time, advises Dr Granite. “Everything that was lurking under the skin surface comes out at once,” she says. “And for some people that can be really, really discouraging.” Play the long game – and expect an improvement after 12 weeks.
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