The Breaking Point: Converting Your Hot Rod to Disc Brakes

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The Breaking Point: Converting Your Hot Rod to Disc Brakes
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Originally published in the June 1978 issue of Hot Rod magazine

Hey, what kind of disc brakes will work on my '27 T Tudor?" Or, ''I got this here T-bucket and it don't seem to stop so good." Or, "My buddy told me that late-model disc brakes need to be whammied before they'll fit my Woodie." And so it goes, the familiar litany of questions from rodders who are still a little hazy on the best way to brake.

There is no doubt about it: Big 'n' little tires look neat. I have them on my rod, as do many others, but this combination can lead to unequal braking. The culprit here is lack of an adequate front tire footprint. During a panic stop situation, a narrow front tire may or may not be able to handle the two-thirds to one-third braking effort needed to stop a heavy rod.

Boneyard bargains may or may not be a good deal, depending on the size and scope of your vehicle. After communicating with four disc brake conversion kit manufacturers, I got the impression that adapting OEM disc/drum braking systems to early-model iron is the way to go, unless the aftermarket packages better suit your particular application. Nonetheless, they do make certain recommendations. For instance, try to tailor the system to your particular car.

Power boosters are something every street rodder should consider when installing a disc/drum braking system. There are many compatible firewall-mounted master cylinder/booster units , as well as remote models that can be placed within the X-member, adjacent to the master cylinder located on the inside of the frame rail. Jaguar even has an in-line booster that may work where space requirements are a consideration.

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