In the Eighties, doctored watches hit the market in such quantities that collectors began referring to modified vintage dials in general as “California,” implying fake. But that meaning has changed over time.
Nobody gets to choose their own nickname. Think George Ruth called himself “Babe”? Certainly not. Similarly, Rolex never used the term “California dial” to describe the watch faces it designed almost a century ago with a combination of Arabic and Roman numerals. But that’s what everyone in the watch game calls them. This story originally appeared in Volume 23 of Road Track.
Eventually, Kirk Rich stopped altering vintage dials to look like pricier editions, and in watch circles, the association of the word “California” shifted away from nefariousness and ended up being a description that’s catchier than “half-Arabic, half-Roman.” It’s easy to see why Rolex never embraced California as an official name for its designs. But another company, Panerai, has. Unlike Rolex, Panerai didn’t always make watches.
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