Valentino and Pierpaolo Piccioli parting ways is fresh news but the rumor mill is already in overdrive, suggesting Alessandro Michele as a successor.
It may be a cliché, but the show must go on. The fashion industry is still digesting the news of PierpaoloOn Friday, WWD was the first to report that Piccioli was exiting the Rome-based couture house based on information from market sources, who also believe that former Gucci creative directorbut the deal did not materialize as the proposal included an investment in the project, which the designer declined.
Sources are also speculating about the future of Piccioli, saying he could be next in line at Balenciaga to succeed Demna, or at Givenchy, now designed by a team after the exit of Matthew M. WilliamsAt the same time, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections, could also be eyeing a return to Rome, either at Valentino or at Fendi, sources believe.
Ferreri acknowledged that “when the going gets tough, practical decisions must be taken and this was not a surprise,” admitting there had been “several signals in the market for a while, despite the strong aesthetic emotions provided at each show.” Giovanna Brambilla, partner at Milan-based executive search firm Value Search, drew a series of comparisons between Piccioli and Michele: Both are very much connected to their roots and their hometowns, both initially trained at Fendi with Karl Lagerfeld, and both have professionally grown in their respective brands and brought “great success with their talent.”
Brambilla concluded by wondering if the business model that has not changed for decades still makes sense, with seasonal collections and shows and special projects supported by enormous investments that “often run out very quickly.” A few brands and designers are breaking this mold, she said, citing Phoebe Philo with her new brand and Moncler with Genius, wondering if these uncertain times will push more companies to radically rethink their strategies.
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