Beneath the Acropolis, the souvenir shops on the pedestrianised streets of Plaka are busy as ever, as are the bars of upscale Kolonaki – but if you’re looking for a break that follows the locals’ lead, there are dozens of spots
re-opened in 2009 to house every artefact found on the ancient citadel housing the Parthenon.
It’s visible all over the city and can feel rather overwhelming in scale, so as a first-time visitor, I booked in with Be a Greek, which organises guided tours with a brief to “turn you into a true local”. Knowledgable guide Stamatia navigated our path through the labyrinthine aisles of exhibits, peppering their descriptions with contexts ancient and modern. Without her insights we’d probably never have appreciated that many of the statues and reliefs on display – now all in dull greys and whites as you also see at the British Musuem – were once resplendent in colour.After a cold ouzo on the museum’s terrace, it was time for dinner.
A wander off any main drag can throw you a few surprises. In Plaka, I found Tom’s Corner on Iperidou Street, an unorthodox gift shop selling only wire model bicycles and painted plastic wine bottles. Proprietor Tom McGrath has decorated his walls with slogans. His house collapsed on the site in 1999 earthquake but Tom, an Irish expatriate, has been somewhat more difficult to shift.
Close to one of the oldest squares in the city, Omonoia, the Brown Acropol Hotel channels the 60s with mid-century furnishings and retro patterns. Though I had no intentions of going camouflage on the trip, the wallpaper was a near-exact match for a summer shirt from Asda’s fathers’ day range which I’d brought along to manage the warm weather.When the city gets too hot, Athenians, notably Hydra, around 90 minutes away by ferry.
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