The perfect timing of the master tailor's recent return to Savile Row was proof of his perennial cool
In a seismic loss to British fashion and craftsmanship, Edward Sexton has died, aged 80. The Dagenham-born master tailor rose to prominence in the Sixties and Seventies alongside collaborator Tommy Nutter, dressing such luminaries as Mick Jagger, Elton John and the Beatles and redefining British tailoring heritage in the process., the spiritual home of British tailoring.
When Nutters opened in 1969, it was the first new tailoring house on the Row for over a century. It made a visit to the tailor’s shop fun, and it even dressed women. There have been more new places since, but none so iconoclastic, or interwoven with pop culture, or influential. The “New Bespoke Movement” of the Nineties, spearheaded by young tailors including Timothy Everest, Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, might never have happened without Nutter and Sexton.
When Sexton finally returned to the Row last year, more than half a century after he first arrived, his aesthetic was once again at odds with tailoring’s status quo, but in line with wider trends. Visit Canary Wharf – one of the last hold-outs of suit-wearing Britain – and you’ll see men in short, shiny jackets with skinny lapels and trousers cut low on the waist and slim in the leg.
But there are still a few very good, stylistically interesting tailoring houses in the UK. The growth of. And away from the boardroom, weird suits are cool again – especially those that are weird in a Seventies way. This year’s award season was awash with flares trousers, narrow waists and, sharp, wall-chipping shoulders. Paul Mescal, for example, has become one of the most stylish men in the world based solely on a run of very good, Sexton-esque Gucci suits.
To that end, it would seem that the Sexton brand has returned to the Row just in time. As it did in the late Sixties, Sexton’s tailoring offers an antidote to the mediocre, and it is so sad that he won’t be able to witness the revolution for a second time.
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