The remote winter sun island with stunning walks that's far from sedate

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The remote winter sun island with stunning walks that's far from sedate
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Portugal's Atlantic archipelago is laced with opportunities for outdoor adventure – here's why to visit now

Portugal's Atlantic archipelago is laced with opportunities for outdoor adventure – here's why to visit nowSerrated edges of land jut out into the Atlantic, which is whipped like egg white at the cliff base below. The static-like crash of the ocean and a chorus of bird chirrups provide a soothing soundtrack. A chaffinch flits across our path.

Microclimates add drama: Fábio decided against another walk as webcams showed heavy wind and rain. With Madeira’s 3,100km-plus network of irrigation channels doubling up as hiking routes , there are plenty of options. Whale and dolphin watching is a highlight. Setting out at 9am on a semi-rigid boat, I passed a young monk seal bobbing, asleep, in the harbour. Then, within 10 minutes of zooming over the waves, a line-up of pilot whale fins appeared to my left. The pod moved closer.

The counter display at Vila do Peixe, a Michelin Bib Gourmand winner in Câmara de Lobos, on Madeira’s south coast, gave an idea of the Atlantic haul. Black scabbardfish, a long, eel-like specimen, and the red-skinned, spiny scorpionfish were among the extensive catch.Other culinary bright spots include Quinta do Furão .

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