12 cooks making the case for the 1970s canapé
There is an egg for every occasion: poached and served on crunchy toast in the morning; for a summer evening, a chorizo frittata. But of all the ways to eat eggs, my favourite is the most fussy: devilled, the art of scooping out hard-boiled eggs and re-stuffing them with a jazzed-up yolk mixture. You might remember devilled eggs from sad ’70s buffets. Perhaps you have memories of shop-bought egg mayonnaise “deli filler”. Forget all that: the devilled egg has a new groove.
The first devilled eggs, which can be traced back to ancient Rome, were boiled and served with spicy sauces. The commercialisation of mayonnaise in the early 20th century led them to become richer and creamier. Great mayonnaise is the secret to the modern devilled egg: take a leaf out of London institution St John’s’ book and make your own and then tailor your dish using different flavours.
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