Kering-owned brand Brioni is launching its first full-fledged women’s collection at Milan Fashion Week, rooted in tailoring, quality and quiet luxury.
After a few seasons where a handful of looks were presented alongside the signature men’s proposition — starting from-owned label is ready to prove that the category can “stand by its own” in the same sophisticated way Stumpfl has been reimagining the Roman heritage label since he joined the company, men and women are equal, on the same level. Fabrics are shared, colors are shared…and I think it’s also the most modern way of thinking,” Stumpfl said in a preview interview.
The idea of sharing the company’s menswear expertise to offer a female counterpart in the Brioni world sprouted from the women in the company themselves, who wished they could find garments with the same craftsmanship and attention to detail they saw in the brand’s men’s collections. Still, the hero pieces are the more feminine ones, bringing newness to the Brioni fashion lexicon, starting with capes to throw over simple turtlenecks and mannish pants. “It’s really nothing but it gives you a really beautiful presence,” said Stumpfl, deep diving on the quality of the fabrics used to craft these designs. For one, a camel option comes in super light brushed cashmere that looks like alpaca, while an evening version is lined in white silk.
Other standouts include a cashmere trenchcoat in a burnt red hue and a short white jacket in the same fabric, to be wrapped loosely around the body. “The white cashmere is even more difficult because of course the manufacturer has to stop the production, clean the whole machine and then can weave the cashmere back. So it’s double the price because it’s so difficult to achieve and nobody does it anymore,” Stumpfl said.
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