On a windswept island off the coast of Scotland, a landmark of liquor reopens for business
On the upper floor of a spilt-level modernist building on the Scottish island of Islay, a landmark moment in the 500-year-old story of Scotch whisky is taking place. Standing beside a long wooden table, with commanding views of wind-battered coast behind him, Ewan Gunn pours two drams into artfully angular whisky glasses, set up next to clear pipettes and pitchers of water.Gunn and his colleague Aimée Morrison invite me to “nose” the first whisky, then taste it.
The new building also doubles as a high-end visitors’ centre. Diageo already has form in this department. In 2021 it opened Johnnie Walker Princes Street — an “immersive experience through the 200-year-old history behind the world’s best-selling Scotch whisky” — on Edinburgh’s main shopping street. Since then, it has had 35,000 people from 112 countries through its doors. Islay is sometimes referred to as “the centre for whisky tourism”.
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