“A thebe is a black and white African shield with a hardened hide on it,” says _ThebeMagugu_
His work is inspired by his upbringing. “We don’t come from much, but my family still had this regality about them,” he says. As an “incredibly sensitive” queer boy, his mother kept a watchful eye over him; kids tormented him with the homophobic slur moffie. “My memories swing from these incredible and fascinating moments to real hurt and confrontation. I come from such a juxtaposed place, both beautiful and ugly, it’s serene and scenic but also very violent and chaotic.
Magugu’s overarching goal is to shift the world’s perception of South African identity. “I want to take the things that have happened in South Africa culturally and historically and translate them into a fashion lexicon so people can see my clothes as modern relics or something encyclopaedic.” While many fashion designers achieve local success before international acclaim, Magugu has experienced the opposite. In 2022, he’s making sure the focus stays on home.
Hair: Christian Eberhard at Management Artists using ORIBE. Make-up: Christelle Cocquet at Calliste Agency. Models: Tanya Churbanova at Monster Management, Daria Koshkina at Ford Models, Olli Heinimäki at The Sisterhood, Eny Jaki at Oui Management, Mamuor Awak at Elite, Yura Nakano at Bananas and Yuki van Gog at Platform Agency. Casting: Daniel von der Graf and Andrea Prato. Set design: Sophear at Art and Commerce. Manicure: Anais Cordevant at Saint Germain. Digital tech: Lorenzo Touzet.
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