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For the tacos and sushi and pasta alone, we’re a wildly fortunate lot. Our size — our critical mass — brings the advantage of specificity. A taquero can differentiate himself by re-creating the smoky carne asada recipe passed down in his Sinaloan family. One chef finds fulfillment perfecting the Edomae-style nigiri she studied in Tokyo; another thrives on Californian liberties, dolloping caviar over tuna and slipping in a course of summer vegetables cherrypicked from the nearest farmers market.
Dinner in the main dining room is $275 per person, with a slightly abridged $170 tasting menu of Kato classics at the bar that’s ideal for solo diners and usually includes a dish involving caviar, mussel liquor, smoked onion cream and a filling side of milk bread. It’s wonderful, but the main experience feels more refined, more driven, each time I visit.
He quickly began dreaming bigger, though, wishing to articulate a sum expression of the coastal flavors he loved across Mexico — and his own imaginings. Some of his menu’s early scene-stealers grew out of relationships he developed with top-tier seafood suppliers.
Cimarusti and his longtime chef de cuisine, Tristan Aitchison, make constant, restrained changes to their tasting menu. No one meal looks the same from night to night, but expect fish and crustaceans served in vivid oils or buttery sauces with sculpted vegetables, all set down in lovely symmetries.
That’s one more thing to anticipate at Quarter Sheets: constant change. To that end, the greatness Ziskin achieves with her layered, ever-varied creations is uncanny, almost spooky. It’s just cake! But it’s also more: It’s the sum of her imagination and years of experience, funneled into America’s edible synonym for celebration. Princess cake takes its cues from the traditional domed Swedish torte, including extra-bright raspberry preserves, billows of cream and a pale green marzipan shell.
My one note: In a time when California has better access than ever to Japanese sake, I’d love to see Inoue invest in a list that’s rangier and includes a few more interesting bottle options under $100.Josef Centeno’s downtown restaurants numbered four before the pandemic; tiny tasting-menu workshop Orsa & Winston and next-door Tex-Mex haunt Bar Amá endure, and they both remain vital to Los Angeles dining. Orsa & Winston turned 10 this fall.
Meat cookery remains the menu’s nucleus. Beyond massive, ever-excellent steaks, consider the slightly more manageable pork loin: It’s roasted in milk and covered, as if spring never ends, in a fine dusting of fennel pollen. Burgers are available on Mondays and Tuesdays for customers who specifically reserve at Chi Spacca’s chef’s counter.
They fulfilled their vow in late summer in the form of a sedate, industrial-modernist space in downtown’s Arts District. The new Baroo looks and feels nothing like its predecessor. Mostly that’s a gain: Park runs an engaged, genial team as general manager, and Uh’s calm demeanor and ever-straight back can be viewed through the large kitchen window. The opening menu is $110 for seven courses.
The pleasure of attending Smorgasburg in its eighth year is revisiting vendors that have gained citywide followings, while also scouting out newcomers. A recent Sunday tour included a breakfast burrito from Jonathan Perez’s Macheen, lamb barbacoa flautas from Steven Orozco Torres’ Los Dorados, and a green chorizo torta from Evil Cooks. For dessert? Velvety scoops of sour cherry and orange blossom-pistachio ice creams from Kinrose Creamery, which landed official vendor status in September.
Bonus: Family member Greg Dulan, who is close to reopening Dulan’s on Crenshaw, and Kim Prince, whose Hotville Chicken heartbreakingly closed late last year, teamed up for a food truck they call Dulanville, serving Nashville-style hot chicken in tacos and red beans and rice loaded with sausage. Follow along onI spent one of my happiest lunchtime meals this year with visiting friends at an umbrella-shaded table on Crudo e Nudo’s sidewalk patio.
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