Joe Nguyen is a digital strategist for The Denver Post. Previously he was the online prep sports editor. Prior to that, he covered Adams County and Aurora in the YourHub section. He has previously covered Colorado’s Asian-American communities as editor for Asian Avenue magazine and AsiaXpress.com.
Shrimp dumplings with saffron shallot sauce. Saffron and turmeric tint the creamy shallot sauce that make these shrimp dumplings gold. Food styled by Simon Andrews. The menu at Lapis, an Afghan restaurant in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of Washington, D.C., offers tongue-in-cheek introductions to each section. The soups are “guaranteed to win over your Afghan mother-in-law ,” the signature dishes are “as formidable as Afghanistan’s mighty mountain ranges.
“It makes me think of the good old days,” Popal said. Born and raised in Kabul, Popal fled the country with her husband, Zubair Popal, and their three young children in 1980 before arriving in the United States in 1987. She learned to cook formally once she left Afghanistan, taking lessons in the United Arab Emirates at the Intercontinental Hotel, where her husband worked.
When Lapis first opened, Popal made fresh dough, similar to the thicker wrappers she prepared with her family in Afghanistan. But the popularity of the dish made it hard to keep up with each day’s orders, so she began using thinner, store-bought dumpling skins instead. The traditional beef and leek dumplings are served with a garlic sour cream, similar to what’s found in most Afghan restaurants.
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