‘They’re a classic’: rollneck reigns supreme at Paris fashion week

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‘They’re a classic’: rollneck reigns supreme at Paris fashion week
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Item loved by tech CEOs and fashion royalty maintains attraction despite becoming political flashpoint

Photograph: Stéphane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty ImagesPhotograph: Stéphane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty ImagesThe struggle to stay warm as energy bills soar across Europe finally hit theAt Givenchy they were high and black, while at Wales Bonner, they came in tight salmon pink. Elsewhere, there were classic black rollnecks at Hed Mayner worn with faux fur stoles, and candy pink versions at Walter Van Beirendonck., Saint Laurent showed funnel-neck jumpers, some of which morphed into gowns.

The polo neck has a long tradition within European style. “They’re a classic,” agreed Matthew Williams, creative director of French brand Givenchy, backstage, who opened his show with five of them. “We do this sort of thing every season.” Williams is best known for his punkish take on tailoring, but this season styled his polo necks under sharp black suits and broad-shouldered camel coats. Some grazed the chin, while others were so wide you could layer a jumper underneath.

During the 1960s, polo necks entered the wardrobes of intellectuals such as Samuel Beckett and Michel Foucault, and Italian film stars like Marcello Mastroianni, who regularly paired his with a trench and wide-brimmed hat. Overnight, they would become the unofficial uniform of both the Left Bank thinkers and red carpet-on-riviera.Photograph: Pixelformula/SIPA/REX/Shutterstock.

A favourite too among the 1% – both fictional and actual – they are also the de facto uniform of tech CEOs who are among the richest people in the world. Few in France will want to look like Macron this week. Tomorrow, Paris will come to a standstill when thousands of workers strike across the capital’s public transport network in opposition to his government’s planned reform to push the retirement age from 62 to 64.

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