In the UK capital, a trio of nascent womenswear designers are honing their craft, celebrating cut, drape and shape from their fledgling studios, from Hackney to Catford.
The brand’s third collection – inspired by the escapism of exotic holidays, the magentas and acid greens of tropical foliage, superfine cotton knits scrunched up into suitcases, and cardigans, tube dresses and soft corsetry dunk-washed in the sea – didn’t swerve family opinion. “We had this weird post-show debrief in the back room of Sweetings,” Lipkin-Connor says. It’s unsurprising considering she harks from a lineage of tailors and clothing purveyors.
For spring/summer ’23, an old Lucinda Byre cardigan inspired an asymmetric button-up sweater, paired with a draped miniskirt. “I’m obsessed with that idea of a knitted twinset. Taking classic pieces and updating them for now,” Lipkin-Connor says. Imagined in Isabelline, a “dirty cream” that supposedly derives from the name of a Spanish princess who, in 1601, refused to wash her garments until her husband returned from a siege, it highlights her obsession with colour.
Model Ka Wai wears a viscose-jersey gown with chrome body adornment, next to Standing Ground founder Michael Stewart.Michael Stewart grew up immersed in the power of ancient relics. His rural family home in East Clare, western Ireland, is overshadowed by a hill that was the location of a prehistoric hillfort.
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