When I first moved to Nice, France, I lived upstairs from the now-defunct bakery Espuno, which had been run by the same family for generations.
This bakery had none of the elaborate pastries I had grown used to seeing in Paris; instead, next to the croissants and brioches, it showcased square slabs of pie with a dark green filling, the top crust sprinkled with a thick coating of sugar.
It was born of an abundance of Swiss chard; in winter, when local fruit was scarce, cooks used what they had available to satisfy a sweet craving. The coating of sugar — originally granulated, but now almost always powdered — distinguishes it from the savory tourte de blettes salée, which is filled with a mixture of Swiss chard, rice, bacon, Parmesan and egg.
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