Chef Jonny Lake makes the case against tasting menus at his two-Michelin-star restaurant
According to the notes on my comprehensive target list, there were two reasons to try Trivet. First, it’s a four-minute walk from London Bridge station which, thanks to Thameslink, is an 85-minute direct journey from Cambridge station, a five-minute stagger from the desk where I’m typing. At about an hour and a half away, if this place is half as good as they say, it could be my local.
Without wishing to flog the point to death, these are the joyful arrangements you can make when you’re not being given mandatory menus. My main was a Sladesdown Farm chicken breast — delightfully, from Devon, not dragged over from Bresse at gunpoint — with a grouting of richly buttered mash and some antiscorbutic spring greens.
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