We track down the bakers who really take the biscuit
Recently I visited a shop in south London called Cöödie that looks like an Apple store but actually sells biscuits. The wife of one of the owners happened to be helping out that day and took me through the options: sobrassada, Mahon cheese and honey; hoisin, white and ruby chocolate; brie, pear and pecan nut; dark chocolate and basil; cheddar and bacon. This last one was particularly delicious: a bit salty and smoky with a lingering smack of cheese.
Its ascent can be attributed to the look and size of its cookies and its weekly rotating menu of new flavours that drop on TikTok to Crumbl’s 9.6mn followers and lead to queues around the block. Flavours include caramel shortbread featuring Twix, fried ice-cream, chocolate-covered pretzel pie, pink velvet cake and confetti milkshake. The even more exclusive Last Crumb in Los Angeles promises “the gold standard” in gourmet cookies, crafted by a head baker whose identity remains secret.
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