The best designers at London Fashion Week proved that fashion is about having attitude, not access. Here is everything you need to know from the spring/summer 2024 shows.
put forward. These designers managed to do something rare this season, by casting new protagonists onto the catwalk. You see them and everything else feels pale and disconnected from culture. The carousel of puff-sleeve dresses, the minor celebrities paid to sit doll-like at shows. You’re reminded that fashion is about having an attitude and a spirit that, yes, will confuse commuters.
At least two of these collections were at risk of never being made. Carzana told Cathy Horyn that he wanted to pull out of the schedule with 48 hours to go. The fact that she attended the show, and then wrote about it, is proof enough that he made the right decision to keep going. Ashley Williams, meanwhile, would not have been able to make a return without the investment she received from the XLNC scheme.
Williams was perhaps the only designer in London to have responded to meme culture, and those designs will no doubt make their way onto cyber-shamanic accounts in the days to come. On another side of Instagram Aaron Esh made a cold-blooded debut. Sitting in a concrete crevice of the Tate Modern, overlooking the London skyline as statuesque storm-chasers stalked through orchestral thrums, I also thought about the apocalypse.
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