Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022.
‘I’ve always been very exposed to this strange state of alienation,’ says Nadège Vanhée, the artistic director of’ womenswear collections. After moving to Antwerp to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in her twenties – the school that had memorably birthed the Antwerp Six, among them Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and– for the next 15 years, she would largely live outside of her native France.
In Vanhée’s collections, contrasts abound: sensuality and toughness, masculinity and femininity, the quotidian with intricate flights of craft. She is often deemed ‘enigmatic’, largely eschewing the spotlight, and absent from social media. Where you expect her to go in one direction, she diverts – if subtly – to another.
And though Vanhée claims not to design clothing for herself, she admits that there is ‘a little of me’ in each collection, but also those around her . ‘It’s a great balance between what I love and what I want to explore – my obsessions, my feelings. What I want to wear, yes, but also pieces that go out of my comfort zone.’ However, she admits, ‘with ‘The Rider’, I would wear every piece’.
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