It’s like a pie without the palaver of pastry, and you can get creative with herbs and cheese
n theory, savoury crumbles are a really good idea, so I don’t get why we don’t make them more often,” says Esther Clark, who writes. Perhaps it’s because their sweet sibling – apple, blackberry, rhubarb, pear – is such an icon, but, as Clark notes, “Crumbles are incredibly forgiving: they go into one tin, so there’s barely any washing-up, and they freeze well, too, making them a good weeknight number.
We’re also fast approaching squash and pumpkin season, and Clark would be tempted to roast them – “to get as much flavour in there as possible” – before combining with her favoured bechamel base. “You could put some dijon mustard in there, too, or broken bits of blue cheese,” she says. Spruce up the basic butter-and-flour topping with chopped sage, hazelnuts, walnuts or pecans, and maybe a few roast pumpkin seeds.
And that’s the thing about a savoury crumble: it all comes down to the detail. For Diacono, this means that the toppings should be nutty, oaty and an opportunity to “mess around with spices” – fennel, cumin and caraway seeds are some of his go-tos.
The other draw of crumbles is that they’re as happy dressed up as they are dressed down, so they’re a really good thrifty dinner option. “You’re mostly using ingredients you already have at home,” Clark says. “And because you’re not spending £3 on some puff pastry for a pie lid, you can also treat yourself to, say, a little good gorgonzola to put in that pumpkin crumble.”
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