Manhattan’s halal carts offer more than a sizzling skewer and a smile: they are living records of New York’s changing habits and demography
Save time by listening to our audio articles as you multitaskSoon the lamb is rotating on its skewer, chicken is sizzling on the grill and falafel burbling in the deep-fryer . Too many people consider food vendors a nuisance, or somehow déclassé. In fact they play a vital role—not just by feeding people, but as living records of their cities’ changing habits and demography.
Mr Baioumy runs one of Manhattan’s “halal carts”, a term with a meaning specific to New York. Usually overseen by Afghans, Bangladeshis or Egyptians like him, they mainly serve halal chicken or lamb over rice or in a pita, garnished either with “white sauce” or hot sauce. Much likestalls in Hanoi or taco trucks in Los Angeles, New York’s halal carts have similar menus, but each vendor has his own style.
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