In the 1950s, Elizabeth David used her food column in British Vogue to introduce readers to a wondrous European ingredient: spaghetti...
has evolved significantly since it first opened in 2010 – and under chef Ed Wilson’s ownership, it’s only become more delicious. Granted, the menu pulls inspiration from across Europe rather than limiting itself to Italy – moreish ingredients rather than culinary traditions rule here – but good luck finding better agnolotti in brodo in London.
may now be owned by Soho House, but there’s something delightfully old-school about the Mayfair branch, whose green leather seats are still filled with W1 suits brokering deals over chicken paillard at lunchtime. Note the bowl of Cecconi-branded matches near the entrance, and the heavy silver cutlery on every table. The cichetti are almost better than the primi and secondi .Calling Bar Italia a restaurant is a stretch, but this tiny Soho café is a real treasure.
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