Why big wave surfer Sebastian Steudtner feels most at ‘peace’ at the mercy of Mother Nature

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Why big wave surfer Sebastian Steudtner feels most at ‘peace’ at the mercy of Mother Nature
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(CNN) — As the swell begins to form and the crest starts soaring into the sky, surfer Sebastian Steudtner puts one hand back to feel the wall of energy rumbling behind him. In just a matter of seconds, the giant wave starts to violently explode onto the shoreline, sending the 38-year-old racing through the chaos at speeds of...

In these moments of serenity, Steudtner says he feels truly connected to nature, a part of one of the most powerful forces in the natural world.Steudtner in Nazaré, Portugal, on December 14, 2018. In just a matter of seconds, the giant wave starts to violently explode onto the shoreline, sending the 38-year-old racing through the chaos at speeds of almost 100 kilometers per hour .

In these moments of serenity, Steudtner says he feels truly connected to nature, a part of one of the most powerful forces in the natural world. But chasing records is very much secondary for the surfer who has dedicated his life to pushing both the limits of the sport and his body.Steudtner, pictured here in 2016, has tried to use his talent to inspire others.

“I learned the culture of surfing, the sport of surfing from the peers of the sport, from the people where the sport is from. That kind of started my journey and I just kept going and going.” “I’m not stupid. I’m not taking unnecessary risks. I would say I’m very calculated. Whenever I get scared and whenever I have fear of something risky that I’m doing, then I face it, I work my way through it, I take the responsibility for minimizing the risk.

Now able to surf faster, Steudtner set about making sure he was safe to do so. Working alongside a military doctor from the German Navy, he developed new safety systems for the whole surfing community.

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