The Port Ellen distillery on the fabled whisky island of Islay has reopened decades after closing, spurred by growing thirst for upscale versions of the amber liquor.
Everything you need to know about whisky and its umbilical bond to Scottish identity can be found in Carol Ann Duffy’s poem “Drams.” “Barley, water, peat,weather, landscape, history;Malted. Swallowed neat.” The words of the UK’s former poet laureate come to mind in the Scandi-vibed lounge of the reborn Port Ellen distillery on the Isle of Islay, where the first drink some visitors are offered is a cup of pine-smoked Lapsang tea from China’s Wuyi Mountains.
In the background, the Maltings, a Diageo-owned plant that supplies bespoke malted barley to Port Ellen and other distilleries on the island, emits a rarely interrupted plume of gray smoke, filling the air with the bouquet of a peat-fired brewery. Looking out, if there are no dolphins or Caledonian MacBrayne ferries gliding across the bay, the eye is drawn to the hills of Antrim in Northern Ireland and the Mull of Kintyre on the Scottish mainland.
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