Critic Bill Addison returns to Meals by Genet's recently reopened dining room and reviews the new L.A. seafood spot Joyce. Plus, a guide through L.A.'s Black taco culture.
If asked to name from memory one element in the small dining room of Meals by Genet — the Little Ethiopia restaurant that chef-owner Genet Agonafer reopened last month for customer seating after a nearly four-year hiatus, during which she focused on takeout — I would bring up the big, wood-framed mirror that hangs behind the bar.
Longtime staffers Olivier Hoarau and Anthony Walker invited us to pluck the folded bread from trays they held out moments before delivering our order. Agonafer’s menu has always been concise. Its centerpiece was, and remains, doro wat. She simmers her painstaking version of the celebratory chicken stew for two days, stirring frequently until the consistency resembles the smoothest, shiniest mole negro. Intricate spices meld into an indistinguishable whole.
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