Why top restaurant menus all look the same

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Why top restaurant menus all look the same
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This week in The Fin podcast, AFR Magazine culinary editor Jill Dupleix on how the business model for high-end restaurants has changed and what the industry needs to do to regain momentum.

Jill, can you ever have a normal experience at a restaurant or as a recognised food critic and cookbook author, is that impossible?

So, I’m talking here from the point of view of someone who eats out a lot. But I’m not talking from the point of view of being a jaded person because I’m an enthusiastic passionate lover of dining out. So, I’m just observing that we have not moved on. We’re stuck. Those menus might have the day’s date up the top. But they’re set in stone.

Lisa: You touched on the economic pressures that are forcing restaurants to play it safe? And it’s fair to say that the business model for the restaurant has changed? Often now successful restaurants, particularly in Sydney, where I live, they’re based around concepts rather than chefs that you talked about from the 1980s. How has that affected what’s on our menus?I think that’s a very clear indication of what’s happening. There’s a lot of new open things at the moment, which is great.

Lisa: So at the high end, where you do have more to lose, where you do have the very expensive fitouts, who’s bucking the trend?That’s an interesting question because it makes me realise that there are different ways of being creative.

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