A New York Times essay titled “‘Bromakase’ Is the New Steakhouse” struck a chord.
When you support our community-rooted newsroom, you enable all of us to be better informed, connected, and empowered during this important election year. Give now and help us raise $4,000 by June 7.The conversation with the gentleman next to me started innocently enough when he asked about the Border Collie on my phone’s lock screen. Of course, the stranger would have no way of knowing that I had put down my dog just two weeks earlier, so I did my best to let him down gently.
For almost as long as there have been restaurants, there have been restaurants that lean into up-market exclusivity. For decades in Dallas, that rarified air has mostly been occupied by steakhouses. Opulent interiors, a la carte sides and massive cuts of beef are the name of the game, because nothing says “conspicuous consumption” quite so eloquently as a 90-day dry-aged 32-ounce Tomahawk ribeye.
Chefs are key, as Sekiguchi rightly points out. “Dallas was very fortunate that many talented chefs opened omakase restaurants around the same time too. Jimmy Park of Shoyo, Kazuhito Mabuchi of Namo, Shine Tamaoki of Pearl, Leo Kekoa of Kinzo – Dallas is home to many young and experienced chefs.” The high price of omakase, combined with the limited number of seats, is always going to shine a light on the socio-economic strata between the haves and the have-nots. For our review of Tatsu, the visit took nearly two months of coordination and planning, mostly because our food expense budget pales in comparison to major newspapers and glossy magazines. We imagine it’s the same for many of our readers, who must allocate their special occasion budgets accordingly.
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