Nicholas Reiff is a writer and logistics professional who specializes in delivering critical humanitarian and government cargo to the world's most challenging locations. He also loves wine.
Southern Ukraine, forty kilometres from Russian lines. It’s May, and the Black Sea countryside is luxuriant: rural homesteads cluster between eye-popping fields of yellow rapeseed flowers. Cows wander viridian pastures. Georgiy Molchanov, a winemaker, steers his work truck along the potholed dirt road heading south from Mykolaiv towards the mouth of the Bug River. This is the heart of Ukraine’s most prized and ancient wine country, a region that stretches from Kherson to Odessa.
There are rows of Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Odessa Black. There’s Separavi too, a grape most famous in the Republic of Georgia, which also flourishes in the warm sun and clay-rich soil of Ukraine’s Black Sea coast.Georgiy’s father Mykhailo is here, tending the vines. Mykhailo and Georgiy were in the fruit business until 2018, when they decided to try winemaking. Since then, Slivino Village Winery has grown to produce around 3,000 bottles of natural wine a year, with plans to expand.
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