At GW Fins in New Orleans, chef Michael Nelson turns whole fish into dry-aged tuna steaks, swordfish charcuterie and more, all with an eye toward cutting waste.
When most of us think of cooking fish, we think about ways to bake, grill or broil fillets or, if we’re feeling adventurous, we might tackle a whole fish. When Michael Nelson, executive chef at theAt the high-end French Quarter restaurant, beautifully seared tuna, grilled swordfish and seafood cioppino share the menu with a rotating selection of delightfully novel offerings, such as a meat lover’s pizza featuring charcuterie fashioned from swordfish or tuna.
“If it doesn’t make dollars, it doesn’t make sense,” he said of his efforts to reduce waste and use the whole fish, even boiling fish scales to create a neutral gelatin and turning fish skins into cracklins. “We’ve proved that it does.”As he led the kitchen, Nelson began to realize that more than half the fish was ending up as waste, and he set out to change that.
, when the normally frenetic pace of the restaurant slowed, he found time to experiment with the process, similar to the one commonly applied to beef. The butchered fish go in glass-fronted, commercial refrigerators programmed for specific temperature and humidity levels. The air inside circulates through UV light, which kills bacteria and other microorganisms.
Weather and the tides affect the availability of the large species of fish, so now, when they are available, he can stock up, use the fresh portions right away, turn less commonly used portions into charcuterie and, several weeks later, begin using the dry-aged fish.
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