From Chanel's Flap and 2.55 to Hermès' Birkin and Kelly, certain handbags transcend trends, proving their enduring appeal. The article explores why these classics remain desirable, the resurgence of archival designs, and how subtle updates can reinvigorate vintage styles. It also highlights the growing demand for authentic pre-owned bags on resale platforms like eBay.
In an age riddled with TikTok “cores”, labelling something as “iconic” can feel throwaway – especially when it comes to handbags. In order for a bag to be considered iconic or an “It-bag”, it should serve its time and prove its worth.
And while it doesn’t always take decades to reach this status – as evidenced by The Row’s Margaux bag frenzy – it’s telling when a bag retains its appeal long after its release. There are the classics, like Chanel’s Flap and 2.55 bags, and Hermès’s Birkin and Kelly, that will be perennially desirable. Simple in their design, these bags make for the perfect everyday companions.
The Birkin’s namesake, Jane Birkin, often carried hers full to the brim, with charms and beads attached to the handles. Moments that don’t require such a capacious sidekick, meanwhile, are best spent with Chanel’s Flap and 2.55, both of which share a boxy shape, quilted exterior and chain handles .
The idiom “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” rings true for the conveyer belt of archive revivals that have hit the runways in recent seasons – Balenciaga’s Le City, Gucci’s Jackie, Chloé’s Paddington and Louis Vuitton’s Speedy, among them. Creative directors know better than anyone the power of rereleases: with an extensive legacy at their fingertips, sometimes it’s smart to update a successful house style rather than start afresh.
Naturally, this has led to a rise in demand for original styles on resale sites like eBay, which offers an Authenticity Guarantee service to ensure customers can buy with the assurance that their vintage designer bags are genuine. A subtle tweak can also go a long way, as seen in Michael Rider’s take on Phoebe Philo’s Old Céline Phantom, first released for pre-fall 2011 , which Rider updated with a curved front zip – a riff on its colloquial name, the smiley-face bag.
Silhouette shifts are another way to make heritage styles feel modern, as epitomised by Jonathan Anderson’s dimension change of the Lady Dior from boxy to horizontally-proportioned warranting a new name, the Lady D-Joy. The breadth of vintage designer bags available, on resale sites and sat in cabinets in second-hand stores – all spanning multiple eras – can make the quest of finding “the one” overwhelming.
As a friend of mine who’s in the market for an everyday vintage bag recently pointed out, the options are seemingly endless. Even as someone immersed in the industry, I find the task of recommending “the best” anything quite daunting, but there were some immediate thoughts that came came to mind. Here’s the list I shared with her.
Chanel Flap or 2.55 Fendi Baguette Lady Dior or Saddle Gucci Jackie or Horsebit Louis Vuitton Speedy Prada Galleria Céline Phantom Hermès Birkin or Kelly Chloé Paddington or Kerala Balenciaga Le City Saint Laurent Mombasa Mulberry Bayswater
Iconic Handbags Designer Bags Vintage Fashion Resale Market Fashion Trends
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