The star of the show was the Red Sea chili wontons with shrimp and pork, covered with red chili sauce, garlic and sesame seeds.
Chef Johnny Curiel has a team of six in the kitchen of his first solo restaurant, after working for big local restaurant groups for the last decade. Getting handed a menu at a new restaurant can be thrilling. It’s a fresh list of culinary possibilities and techniques. Eyes linger to nearby tables for inspiration as exciting aromas waft from the kitchen behind the servers. A diner could be on the precipice of greatness.
Curiel folds corn flown straight from Mexico into the beans, which is “why it’s so creamy,” he said. He makes his own grind for the chorizo, which is marinated for 36 hours and cased in-house. And the dish is served with a side of sourdough tortillas, reminiscent of Guadalajara’s traditional birote . Curiel said they make 130 every day. “I didn’t want to half-ass the bread,” Curiel said. “It took us probably 30 to 40 different tries before we nailed down the tortillas.
The dish I connected with the most was his Mushroom Trio, made with enoki, maitake and shiitake Japanese mushrooms, butter, garlic and thyme. The dish is wrapped up in aluminum foil and tied together with a string, an ode to Sananikone’s childhood around the campfire with friends. The playful presentation brought back my own childhood memory of making banana boats with chocolate and marshmallows at Girl Scout Camp. It was like a savory, buttery bite of a favorite core memory.
The star of the show, though, was the Red Sea chili wontons with shrimp and pork, covered with red chili sauce, garlic and sesame seeds. The chili clears your nostrils like Moses parted the Red Sea, and every bite packs a punch of flavor that creeps through the spiciness so that you will be disappointed when the plate is empty.
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