When the call came bearing the word “tumour” for Brisa Hennessy, an internal thunder of mental health issues, body dysmorphia and anxiety that has dogged her for so much of her career should have cranked up the decibels too.
The roar of Pipeline – think of a Hawaiian Airlines flight taking off amplified through a megaphone – has long kept surfers awake at night.
But only after her last trip to the French Polynesian paradise prompted her to flag the small, surging mountain of symptoms that she had been competing with – while ranking among the top five female surfers on the planet – for the past year.Blood test results came back telling Hennessy that the heart palpitations, fatigue, lethargy, depression and brain fog she had been experiencing were caused by hypothyroidism – when an underactive thyroid gland does not produce enough hormones for the body.
“Especially for women surfers, we’re constantly having to show our bodies and be in bikinis. It’s a very natural sport and it’s so beautiful. She slept without screens or covers on her windows in the rainforest, and with jaguars, pumas and snakes a daily feature of her young life “cannot believe I didn’t get taken by a monkey”.Competing around the globe, most memorably with breakthrough 2022 victory at Hawaii’s iconic Sunset Beach Pro, became her escape from the pressure piling up, inside and out.
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